Friday, December 5, 2008

GRENOBLE




It’s now the day before my 21st birthday and, as usual, I have a lot of catching up to do! About three weeks ago, I took a trip to Grenoble, France with a couple good friends and a few complete strangers. Tarik, my favorite Moroccan neighbor, invited me to go back in October, and it was an offer I couldn’t turn down. In Grenoble, I met up with three more of Tarik’s friends and one other American guy from my program – three Moroccans, two Americans, and a French guy; five guys and me… it felt like high school all over again! ☺
We spent the weekend in a tiny little chalet in a tiny mountain village outside of Grenoble in the French Alps. It was by far the most relaxing time I have spent thus far in Europe. We romped around the Alps, played games of Monopoly and Rummy late into the night, ate delicious French and Moroccan meals, and laughed… a lot.
I could tell you a million stories from the weekend, mostly hilarious cases of mistranslation from French to English, English to French, or Arabic to English to French… But those might not be appropriate for all readers (I know my blogging fans are plentiful and diverse. Ha ha… hi mom and dad.) So instead, I’ll just post pictures.


Two shots of the view from our Chalet


Tarik and Sean


AMAZING Moroccan meal: Couscous


Perrier enjoying dinner with us


one of the many Monopoly games...


the whole crew, departing on a hike


great views everywhere




A better look at the tiny village where we stayed


my favorite picture of Tarik




singing songs in Arabic


There were definitely more sheep than people in our village...


Edelweiss, Edelweiss... The whole
place was very "sound of music"



Happy Dani in the mountains... I can't wait to go back.







Wednesday, November 19, 2008

HAMBURG / AMSTERDAM



The next stop was Hamburg, a smaller city in northern Germany. Everyone we had talked to (including a girl who lives down the hall from me who is from Hamburg) strongly suggested we visit this little city, and guaranteed we were in for a good time if we wanted to take part in the night life. So, we decided to go. We were just there for one day and one night, and spent the better part of that rainy afternoon wandering through streets, doing a little shopping, seeing some of the sites… Kaitlin finally tried the “curry-wurst” everyone had been raging about in Germany – essentially a bratwurst with curry seasoning smothered with ketchup… but pretty tasty! By nightfall, we were ready to find out what everyone had been talking about…



Perrier wants to be a sailor...

After exploring a quaint village-type area in town and finding dinner, we were off to explore what our map called the “most sinful mile.” Little did we know, Hamburg was mostly known for having the largest red light district in Germany! But, despite the obscene amount of… obscenities… we managed to have a pretty fun evening! We found a bar that served 99cent drinks – a great way to start any evening – then found another nice jazzy bar and chatted with a few Germans for the rest of the evening… overall, a success.


cool sculptures on the "most sinful mile"


The next day we hopped on yet another train and headed to our final destination, AMSTERDAM. This was the first city that I would be revisiting after my trip to Europe with my family in the summer of 2002. It was a great feeling of déja-vu... I think this email that I sent my parents says it best…

hey! just got done seeing the house of Anne Frank, a very different experience from what I remember seeing when I was 14. I think I am able to understand the magnitude of it all a little better now, although I don't think I will ever be able to wrap my head around it... But visiting Dachau while we were in Munich definitely served as a physical manifestation of very real suffering... this trip has been powerful in so many ways.

Love you guys a lot, and I miss you! Amsterdam is the first place I have been back to that we all saw together, and my memories of the city are really vivid! And I'm thankful that we all got to see parts of Europe together, and that we will be able to do that again in just SIX WEEKS!!!!! I can't believe Christmas break is coming up that soon... I love you! and I'll talk to you when I get back to Paris -dani



It goes without saying that Amsterdam was amazing... Halloween was certainly a night to remember… And the next day we made it to the house of Anne Frank and saw more of the city by foot before it got dark and we decided to wander through the Red Light District (“it’s cultural!”). Every night ended with us (myself, Kaitlin, and the four other girls we met up with in Amsterdam, all from our Gonzaga program in Paris) eating the most AMAZING waffles known to man… my favorite was the chocolate and banana combination. They were to die for. Literally, I might be willing to die. For a waffle. It was that good.
Our last day in Amsterdam was spent wandering through parks, stumbling upon an amazing photography exhibit, and eating an incredible Indonesian meal – SO much good food… It was the perfect way to end an incredible trip.


Great Indonesian food


Lattes to GO! the concept doesn't really
exist in France... we were pretty excited
when we found a great little coffeeshop in
Amsterdam... No really, this one had COFFEE.


Picasso sculpture in a park

Monday morning, we caught a train back HOME, to Paris : )



now THAT'S American.

Monday, November 17, 2008

BERLIN


Peace and gum... the Berlin Wall.

Berlin was our next stop in our German adventures… It too was a beautiful city, but definitely in different ways. Upon arrival we looked for our hostel for almost two hours before finally finding it… at which point we were pretty exhausted and had a fairly low key night – a couple glasses of wine and we were ready to cash in. It is still feels a little strange to look a waiter in the eye and order alcohol, but I’m never going to be underage again! Wahoo!

We woke up the next day in time for a tour of the city– I think it’s the best way to really see a big city like Berlin when you only have two or three days there. The organization “Free Europe” is amazing – they give great tours, and host awesome pubcrawls. I am sure I will do another tour with them in the future… and maybe a few more pubcrawls : )


Brandenburg Gates

There is so much to learn and see in Berlin, a four-hour tour really doesn’t do it justice. But it was a start. All day long we were crossing streets and sidewalks with double brick lines down the middle – signifying the former location of the Berlin wall. It was really bizarre to think there was once a wall actually dividing a city, and that it fell during my lifetime. Kaitlin pointed out that if my parents were born in Berlin, their lives would have been seriously affected by its presence.


Looking through a part of the wall that is still standing in the middle of Berlin


bullet holes were in almost every wall of every
building that remained from WWII



walking through the holocaust memorial in Berlin. Situated
no more than 200 yards from where Hitler's Bunker was
formerly located, the memorial is made up of 2,711 identical,
unmarked, gray slabs, all of different heights. The architect
never spoke of the significance of the number of blocks
nor the meaning of his design.



crossing the street, crossing the wall.

We ended the afternoon with a visit to the Checkpoint Charlie museum, which had come strongly recommended by a favorite GU professor. It was incredible – really shed light on the individual lives that were affected by the presence of the Wall. I would definitely recommend it to anyone visiting Berlin.



We finished off the night with a lively pubcrawl, met a bunch of Aussies, Kaitlin had a dance off with a professional Magic player (we’re not talking about a professional magician here folks, I mean MAGIC cards, like old school Pokémon… and he was on tour. Internationally. Pretty great.) We met a bunch of Aussies, and danced our way across the city…


The next morning we ventured out in the rain to find a Café that Kaitlin knew about somewhere down in the Kreuzberg quarter. Turned out to be an AMAZING meal, great fresh salad, really yummy bagel, and a perfect cappichino… I could have been back in Boulder for a minute there… Lunch was followed by some wandering and exploring, snacking on yummy dried fruits while we took a long walk through Tiergarten – maybe my favorite park so far.


An afternoon in Tiergarten

And the next morning, we were up early to head to Hamburg!


"Berlin"


Friday, November 14, 2008

DAUCHAU


A former concentration camp used to murder hundreds of thousands of people between the years of 1933-1945. The things I saw and felt on the grounds of the former death camp were sickening, maddening, disgusting, tear jerking, heartbreaking, frustrating, REAL, dismal, horrific, painful. Dauchau brought more life and reality to a historical event than I thought possible – I felt somehow personally involved? responsible? It was a sort of day of mourning for me, and I will not soon forget the things I learned and saw that day.


Dachau was the only camp that was in operation during the full duration of the Nazi regime. Starting in 1933, political “prisoners” were sent to the former rifle factory. What started as a small production site grew from its two original barracks to thirty-four barracks. Fully equip with a “hospital” in which thousands of medical experiments took place, often costing prisoners their lives. 32,000 people were found in the camp on the day of liberation… I walked on the same grounds where those prisoners – and tens of thousands of others – would stand at attention for roll call each morning, would work themselves to death doing meaningless labor, would whisper words of encouragement or news of family in passing, would intentionally disobey an SS officer to commit suicide as a final assertion of their ability to CHOOSE something.



I saw the original train station in Dauchau. I took the rout which survivors of the train ride would have been paraded through town on the way to the camp. I stood on the cobblestones just in front of the camp where SS soldiers would randomly execute prisoners upon arrival. I walked through the gate that boldly read “Work Shall Set You Free.” I saw the tables where people were told to empty their pockets, forfeiting whatever remaining possessions they had – clothing included. I saw the sign on the wall that read “No Smoking” – a cruel joke for a huddled crowd who no longer has pockets to call their own, much less a lighter or a cigarette. I stood in the showers where prisoners were shaved and “disinfected” for lice. I walked through the recreations of two barracks, and saw the concrete foundations that were placed in the location of the other 32 – which were missing as they had been torn down in the 1960’s and never rebuilt. I walked past guard towers, saw the barbed wire fences and electrical fences. I walked on the grass...



I walked through a gas chamber, and with tears blurring my vision I looked on the crematorium. Now, the mass killings are more real to me than before. Not that these events were ever any less true, but for me, the Holocaust can is no longer understood through a collection of graphic photos. Something about walking on that soil, wandering through the remaining buildings, seeing photos and possessions of prisoners, hearing individuals’ stories who lived and died on those grounds… Everything that happened that day changed the statistics from numbers into LIVES… And for me, that made all the difference.




I won’t forget Dauchau. I can’t forget it. I want the experience to make me grow, force me to reflect, and allow me to mourn. At the camp, I grieved for the prisoners. For lives lost, changed, torn, ruined. Families forever altered by the events that took place on the very soil I walked over. I want to say “Never Again” – the words branded in one stone memorial in the middle of the camp – but I can’t. For even today, injustice persists.



The memorials placed at Dachau are a completely separate point of interest. There is one particularly graphic sculpture that embodies suffering, turmoil, desperation, darkness. It, probably, is the most famous.




But there is another art form just below the famous sculpture that appears as three links adorned with various colored triangles, depicting the different patches prisoners would have worn. The Dauchau survivor’s committee decided not to place the pink triangle on the memorial (the symbol of homosexual prisoners) as well as the black triangle (the symbol of social outcasts including the mentally disabled and the Roma, or Gypsy, peoples.) Even after such a tragedy, discrimination divides Holocaust survivors – this seems impossible to me.



Both groups performed hunger strikes in front of the memorial – just in front of the roll call area. Hunger Strikes. At a concentration camp. Powerful. The Roma peoples were eventually given “hollow” triangles on the memorial which, when viewed at the right angle, may appear black. And the hunger strike of a handful of homosexual men was called off when a large, pink granite triangle was placed inside in the museum commemorating the lives of homosexuals that were taken at Dachau.


Thursday, November 6, 2008

It all started on a night train…

Alright, I know it has been FAR too long since I have “blogged” (is that even a verb? My spell check apparently thinks so…). SO, in a feeble attempt to make up for it, I will make an extra long entry this time (this is why I was afraid to start blogging in the first place… here I am talking to myself in cyber space for all the world to read. Who am I kidding, mom and dad, I know you’re the only real people that read this anyway ☺)
SO. Where to begin? About four weeks ago, Kaitlin and I decided to embark on a German adventure for our fall break. We finally got all the travel plans set about a week before we left town; the final itinerary including stops in Munich, Berlin, Hamburg, and Amsterdam.

MUNICH
And so it began, in an overcrowded second class compartment on the night train from Paris to Munich two Fridays ago, the 24th of October. We arrived in Munich about 9:30 AM, quickly found our hostel, and set out to see the city. I remember feeling like I was really exploring a new place for the first time while we walked around Munich that day. I started to realize that all the incredible things about Paris had somehow managed to become routine, normal, and seemingly average after only living here for a short five weeks! I am making a conscious effort now to keep my eyes wide open … I walk new routs to school whenever possible, and try to never stop exploring.

But back to Munich. We walked around Marien Platz and saw the famous clock tower before climbing up the bell tower at St. Peters. From there, we were at eye level with the clock tower and at 11am the four hundred year old clock did its thing and we watched from the neighboring tower as foot traffic came to a standstill in the square down below. We spent the rest of the morning on the edge of the English Garden and wandering around the “Residenz” area. Come late afternoon, we were getting pretty hungry (and maybe a bit thirsty?) and we set off to find the Hofborau Haus – the famous beer garden in the middle of Munich.

One of my favorite stories from the trip: The place was packed, but we finally found what looked like two empty places at a table of old men decked out in red and white getting ready to see the soccer match in Munich later that evening. We asked if the seats were free, they smiled as they invited us to sit down. We hadn’t been at their table for more than thirty seconds before two MORE old men slid in next to us, effectively trapping us in the middle of a table of six intoxicated German soccer fans. Naturally, hilarity ensued. While Kaitlin and I struggled to finish a liter of beer each, these guys managed to down TWO a piece – meanwhile snapping photos of themselves with their arms around us… One guy even gave me his hat! And since they didn’t speak any English, we all had to rely on various caveman-like grunts and gestures to get any kind of a point across. But mostly, we just laughed.